Phantom Thread (dir. Paul Thomas Anderson)
- Elliot David Foster
- Jan 19, 2018
- 4 min read

Awards seasons is well and truly upon us, as is demonstrated here in Paul Thomas Anderson's exemplary tale of an unorthodox love affair between a brilliant dressmaker and an immigrant waitress. Blending themes seen in his earlier works "There Will Be Blood" and "Punch Drunk Love", Anderson presents a 50's set melodrama in a world of high-fashion and complicated gender politics that effortlessly glides across the screen. No doubt infamous for being Daniel Day Lewis last outing, yet Anderson's most triumphant feminist story should be remembered for getting career-best performances from Lesley Manville and an assured and bravura turn from newcomer Vicky Krieps.
Filmed on location in Britain, it's 1950s London and the post-war boom of couture elegance and high-societal debutants take full flow. Day-Lewis is renowned dressmaker Reynolds Woodcock - a brilliant yet obsessive ladies tailor at the pinnacle of his game. In tandem with his sister Cryril (the incomparable Lesley Manville), their successful business arrangement sees them adorn every Tom, Dick and Harry in London's prestigious boroughs with the very finest in sartorial elegance. Using their cramped yet clearly expensive homestead, their daily life consists of shepherding young models in and out of the condominium in their latest fashion motif. Seemingly, he lives too fastidious of a life to maintain a romantic life, but he runs into Alma (Vick Krieps) at a local breakfast establishment and is instantly smitten; her clumsiness and her reserved shyness attract him instantly. There's clearly a spark between the two- at first, Woodcock sees Alma as a project; another model he can adorn with his renowned dresses and willow her around like cattle down the runway. But before long, their lustful accord blossoms from awkward exchanges to a full blown romantic entanglement.
With an assured director at the helm in Paul Thomas Anderson, fusing themes of gothic romance and traditional melodrama which are consistently entertaining and rich with nuance - Anderson directs with an old-school fusion; opting for a no-nonsense narrative style that strangely feels both contemporary and as vintage as the dresses on show. Anderson delicately portrays our characters war as fluid drama that never says away from dark-comedy - a particular scene including an affluent heiress with whom Reynolds builds a dress for her fifth wedding, sees her drink into abyss during her nuptials and pass out at the bridal table.
The drama plays out as a delicate and intricate portrayal of a relationship between two very different people; albeit both to blame for their borderline co-dependance. Reynolds countenance and air speak volumes about his childishness and inability to connect with women. Often shutting them out completely when he is no longer in need of them - letting his sister Cyril clean up after him.The notion of completely surrounding to another human being isn’t something that comes easy to Reynolds. He likes being in control of other people.
To Reynolds, women have become a integral part of his make-up. Haunted by visions of his deceased mother, Reynolds grapples with his own sense of self-worth by hallucinating visions of his mother - most notably at his most vulnerable. Applying her name into the canvas on his dresses at first appears to be an ode to an forgotten mentor, but is instead an outdated cry for help from a man with maternal issues. Cyril (Lesley Manville), his sister and chief business liaison becomes his surrogate mother. She handles the day to day business - in one marvelous scene, upon meeting Alma for the first time, she scribbles down the dimensions of our female love interest as if she is chalking down the proportions of an automobile. But not only this, she becomes his liaison for all matters libidinous; often conversing with Reynolds on 'what to do" with Alma once their relationship becomes toxic.
Daniel Day-Lewis announcing his retirement during production was a shock to many of course, though don’t write off the London-born actor, as his penchant for the extravagant are as well-known as his dedication to his craft. Before long, rumors will surface of his return, it’s clear he was born to act and even after a long career which has seen him showered with the the most luxurious of accolades, he relishes in a new challenge that can see him unwind and completely fall into the role.
"Phantom Thread" is a meticulous study of a man's ego at odds with a woman's needs to please. A feminist tale in which woman fight for the right to be heard and more importantly to be seen. Though Alma's actions border on the morally ambiguous, you completely side with our titular heroine. Her constant need for affection from Reynolds garners a great deal of sympathy, as is Anderson’s intentions. But even if find it difficult to find a way into Reynolds pained and shell-like exterior, there’s a unwavering charm about him: one that gives you cause for concern but ultimately allows you to warm to his plight of the artist-at-odds with his own genius, here's an examination of how far a woman’s love will extend far beyond her ability to deal with her lover’s difficult behavior and is often mesmerizing enough to make you fall completely in love with it.
Rating 5/5.
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